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He put the surfboard in the back of his truck and took off.

He was stoked because he heard that there would be off-shore winds and about six to eight foot waves.

That would be just about perfect in his mind.

It was 4:30 a.m, and still dark.

When he got there, the ocean was like glass, he was a little disappointed. Sun was just peaking over the horizon. He watched and waited for the next set.

There it was... the beauty of the ocean, kicking in some off-shore winds, slight spray at the top of the wave, causing it to break just right.....

It was like looking at Rincon.

He watched a few more sets and then, he paddled out. No wet suit needed today. It was a warm 65.

Out there, on the crust, waiting on the back of his board, he closed his eyes...

Not a single soul was there.... yet.

And it was so quiet he could hear the waves building behind him. It was awesome.

He opened his eyes just in time to see the swell, it was bigger then he thought, rushing up behind him.

All he wanted to do was try to catch a little shoulder....

As he did, he dropped in and took off. He turned and got inside a little...awesome ride

As he came out, the waved bottomed so he baled ...

Good ride, he thought as he paddled back out.  Need about 25 more like this today before I even think about leaving.......


This was the only time he could clear his head, being one with the ocean was something explainable.

It would be about noon before he was done. He threw his board in the back of his truck and drove home.

There wouldn't be much to say when he got home. He was spent and he was in the zone.

He had left his cell phone on the kitchen counter, and it was blowing up.

"No," he said out loud. "You're not ruining my day today!"

He picked up the cell phone and dialed a number.

Hi

Hi, whatcha' doing?

Waiting for you. You need to come over here, right now....

Then, he turned his cell phone off. He went to take a shower and before he was done she was climbing in the shower with him.

Where's Sara? she asked him as she climbed in.

Sara? Sara who?  I don't care about her. Don't want to hear her name, not again. Don't bring her up and spoil this...

Sorry, she said. When they were done, he decided to tell her what happened. Sara had cheated on him. There would be no more Sara. She had been calling him non-stop since his best friend told him.

Besides, why would you care if I was still with Sara, don't you want me for yourself??

Of course, she said, embarrassed. She wanted him more then anything. But not like this. Not on the rebound.

Look, you're awesome and I really like you...

Oh yeah, he laughed and put his hand on her neck.

Yes, she laughed...but I don't want you like this...

Why? Don't you think I care about you?

No, I know you do. I just think there should be some time between Sara and I....

Seriously?

yes

Then do what you gotta do...

She got up and looked at him. You know, I'll be back.

Whatever you say...

she waved at him as she turned to go out the door.

he looked troubled

He went back to his cell phone and turned it on. There she was calling him again.

"Sara, stop calling me. It's not going to do you any good." And he hung up.




May 24, 2013.